Question: When it comes to hair care I have a pretty big dilemma. I have fine thin hair and I definitely need to use product in my hair, but I also have horrible finicky skin and any time I use anthing it cause my skin to break out and my pores to get really clogged and swollen. I am searching for hair products that are non-comedogenic. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Christian

Answer: Well Christian, this one was a little tough! And I really wanted to get this question answered because I'm sure there are a lot of people out there with this same problem. For me, I have learned that if I get ANY hairspray on my face, I'd better watch out...and cleanse that spot fast!

First of all, I would suggest consulting a dermatologist about non-comodegenic hair products if you can't find ones that don't irritate your skin on your own. However, here is some more information I came across while researching the answer to this question, followed by some product suggestions I've found for you! Because wow...from looking for this info I've realized how hard it might be for some of you who have troubles with normal haircare products. It took me hours to locate products specifically labeled "oil-free" or "non-comedogenic" online. I've only been able to locate a few, and this info below is just a start, but you can take this advice and try to make some changes and see if you get some positive results! Also, if a product line has one product you can use, they may have more. When you go to your salon, ask the professionals there to also let you know about any non-comedogenic/oil-free hair products.

Readers, have any suggestions? Post them in the comments section of this entry!

Your DeLush Diva,
Melissa

****************************************************************

(from acne.com)
"Style your hair with care. Most hair products are full of the ingredients we’d like to keep away from our skin: alcohol, adhesives and oils. So if you’re prone to acne, use care when styling your hair — cover your skin when you spray, and try to keep oils, mousses, gels and pomades away from the skin at the hairline. And don’t use hair products when you exercise; perspiration from your scalp can carry styling products onto your skin, contributing to new breakouts."

(from Retin-A-Micro site)
"You might not think of your hair as contributing to acne, but it can. The oil in your hair products—from shampoo and conditioner to hair gel—can migrate onto your face when your hair rubs against your complexion during the day or while you sleep. Try to find products that are oil-free or keep your hair away from your face as much as possible."

(from Cosmo Girl article)
"...Most hair sprays, leave in conditioners, and spray gels contain oils that clog spores when they're sitting on your skin. ...When you're spraying, use the hand you're not spritzing with to shield your face from wayward mist (or cover your face with a paper towel, then spray) Also, do your hair before applying makeup. That way, when you're done styling, you can give your skin wipe down with toner (without messing up your makeup.)"

(from Vegetarian Times article)
"...Bank believes that even leave-in hair products like conditioners, mousses and gels can block the pores. 'The oil from them may trigger outbreaks along your hairline," he explains. His advice: If you're breaking out, skip the leave-in products and make sure to thoroughly rinse out conditioner while in the shower. And in general, when it comes to beauty products, chose ones specifically labeled oil-free or non-comedogenic.'"

Some Oil Free/Non-Comedogenic Products to try:

Kenra Detangler for fine | thin hair

* Cross-link Polymer promotes body and volume
* Botanical blend for healthy, shiny hair
* Lightweight, oil-free leave-in treatment
* Alleviates static and frizz
* 2-Part Color Lock

Retail Price: $17.00 (salons)

Redken Solve Purifying Shampoo
"...cleanses to help control oily hair and scalp and leave hair full, fresh and oil-free. It restores control to hair so it's healthy, shiny and manageable."

*Available in salons






Mastey Frehair Light
"Frehair light daily conditioner for fine and delicate hair instantly eliminate tangles and flyaways. Thickens the hair and adds fullness without weighing it down. Its ultra-light system smoothes and softens hair for easy combing and styling. Controls static charges, and provides markedly improved texture. Leaves hair feeling light, supple and manageable. Oil free."

Retail Price: $10-25.00 (mastey.com)

L'anza Urban Elements Shine Gel
"Shine Gel is a lightweight, non-oily glossifier that provides maximum shine while leaving the hair feeling smooth and soft. Controls split and frizzy ends without making the hair sticky."

*available at Trade Secret and salons

The last time I was at the stylist, she said I shouldn't buy the shampoos and conditioners that I find at Wal-Mart because they are full of extra wax and things that your hair doesn't need (brands like Herbal Essences and Pantene).  This was the first time I had ever heard this and I've gone to many different stylists over 20 years.  I know that Pantene does cause lots of buildup on your hair, but I didn't realize that other brands did.  Is that really true, or was she trying to get me to buy some of her shampoo?

- Kate

Kate:

I have some strong opinions on this, which I'll expound on shortly.  Now, I've always heard that drugstore shampoos were worse for your hair because they were harsher, but I've never heard that it was because of buildup.  I've gotten buildup from expensive salon shampoos just as easily as those from the drugstore, and I think that has a lot more to do with whether or not you're using a moisturizing shampoo and/or a deep conditioner.

I called my (absolutely magical) hairstylist, Courtney, from Kemp Hair Studio of Birmingham, AL to see what she thought about it.   In her opinion, there's a huge difference between drug store and salon shampoos.  Drug store shampoos usually have a lot more detergents, which in turn will leave your hair drier and less healthy.  She said that there's less of a difference with conditioners.  You may find that salon conditioners contain more proteins, which do help in keeping your hair more healthy, but getting a salon conditioner is much less important.

This is where we get to my opinions on this.   I've used drug store products for most of my life and I had the driest, most lifeless, boring hair.  About three years ago I had a colorist who recommended Aveda products for my poor, dried out hair.  My hair was a lot healthier after just a couple of months, and I used those products almost exclusively until just recently.  Last summer, I switched to a drug store brand for a few weeks over the summer (save a few bucks, why not?) and I could immediately tell the difference -- my hair looked lifeless after just a couple of washes, not to mention how it made my blonde highlights turn all brassy.  Right now I'm still using the Alterna Caviar products for my primary shampoo and conditioner, and my hair has never looked better.  They say "never say never", but I think I can safely say that I will never go back. 

So, uh, yeah...back to the question.  I found a few references to the surfactants (the soap part) used in major shampoos.  Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate are considered to be the most harsh.  TEA Lauryl Sulfate & TEA Laureth Sulfate are supposed to be the best, with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate somewhere in the middle.  That may be true, but just for the record, my Caviar shampoo contains the harsher of the soaps and it leaves my hair feeling luxurious.  So that's probably something to keep in mind, but it's not the total answer when it comes to which products work best with your own hair.

Something else I thought was interesting: Salon shampoos may contain up to 50% more of the good stuff like moisturizers that help your hair, and less water (a main ingredient in all shampoos), which means that, although you may be paying more, you're also getting more out of every squeeze of the shampoo bottle.  It also means you may be able to use a lot less of them in your daily shower.

So Kate, I do recommend that you try out some salon shampoo and conditioner.  If your stylist is really familiar with your hair, they'll be able to give you a good recommendation for where to start.   I think you'll be pleasantly surprised with how shiny and healthy and bouncy your hair becomes when you find the right products that works with your hair.  If you continue using drugstore brands but are concerned about buildup, you might try a weekly treatment with Aveda Hair Detoxifier or Neutrogena's Anti-Residue Shampoo.   That won't help with the harshness of the drugstore brands, though, so make sure you use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner.

Jen

Note:  We'd like the question and answer column to become a regular feature on DeLush.  If there's a question about beauty products that you've been dying to ask, please write to us!