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Meet Liz Quesnelle, founder of Le Bon Visage in Chicago, Illinois. We recently were able to ask Liz some questions that we've come across in your emails and also some questions we've been wondering about. You can read more about Liz at the end of this interview. Here we go!

What is the most common skin problem you see?
Do all women really need to use a toner or astringent?
How much is TOO much when it comes to exfoliating?
Does it really matter in which direction you apply facial cleansers, etc. to your face?
A reader asked us how to get rid of fine lines around the mouth. Any suggestions?
What is your favorite recipe for an at-home facial mask?

DeLush: What is the most common skin problem you see for your clients?

Liz: The most common skin care problem that I see at Le Bon Visage is the over-drying of skin. There is a tendency for people to think they are much oilier than they are. They also mistakenly believe that oil is the enemy of the skin but nothing could be further from the truth. Sebum, which is the oil produced by the skin, serves to lubricate the skin and protect it from the elements. By cleansing the skin frequently, using only oil-free products and over-using alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, the skin loses it’s natural defense against evaporation, dirt, and bacteria. In addition, often when the skin feels that it is short of oil, the body will speed up generation of the oil, causing the skin to begin to over-produce.

DeLush: Do all women really need to use a toner or astringent?

Liz: No. It is my personal belief that toner has no real purpose anymore. Originally, it was developed to restore the pH balance of the skin, which is essential for the body’s defense system. These days, most products are created to fall within the range of the skin’s pH – around 5.5 – 7 – thereby causing no disturbance to the acid mantle.
Another reason that, according to manufacturers, toners are needed is to remove traces of make-up and dirt left behind after cleansing. If there are traces of dirt and make-up left behind after a person cleanses, then he/she need to take the time to cleanse properly. As for astringents – these are far too harsh for most people’s skin and are best avoided. They can dry the skin out, causing just as many problems as the acne it was to fix.

DeLush: How much is TOO much when it comes to exfoliating?

Liz: When it comes to exfoliating, what constitutes too much really depends on each individual’s skin and the strength of the products used. As a general rule, I recommend that my clients exfoliate with an OTC acid or enzyme 2x per week, unless they are highly sensitive. Then it’s just once per week. I also recommend that all exfoliating be done at night, where the fresh skin won’t come into contact with UVA and UVB rays for several hours. I also recommend that my clients be very careful with any exfoliant that contains ground shells or pits. Often times, these shells don’t have well-rounded edges, thus leaving sharp edges which can cause microscopic tears in the skin.

DeLush: Does it really matter in which direction you apply facial cleansers, etc. to your face?

Liz: There is really no conclusive evidence either way. However, it is my opinion that everything should be applied to your face in gentle, upward strokes. These strokes should be light enough that the skin doesn’t move when you are applying the products; rather the products glide over the skin. Since we all occasionally rub too hard, it’s better to be moving upwards. Why give gravity a helping hand?

In addition, these upward strokes can help with circulation – both of blood and of lymph, which helps to nourish your skin and get the “garbage” taken away.

DeLush: A reader asked us not too long ago how she could get rid of fine lines around the mouth. Any suggestions?

Liz: Unfortunately, lines around the mouth behave like any other wrinkle: Once the line is there, you can’t really get rid of it without surgery or an injectable, such as Restylane. However, you can reduce their appearance and keep new ones from developing by following these rules:

1. Keep the area clean, but don’t over-cleanse the area. People have a tendency to over-wash their skin, stripping it of essential oils. This results in dry and flaky skin, which makes creases look much deeper than they are. If your skin isn’t terribly oily, I recommend that you cleanse the skin once per day.
   
2. Keep the skin moisturized on the inside. Cells are made primarily of water. When they lack it, the cells are flat and dried out. They are unable to reflect light, which makes the skin look old and tired. By drinking plenty of water, your skin will look plumper.
   
3. Keep the skin moisturized on the outside. By using a moisturizer that contains a humectant (such as hyaluronic acid/sodium hyaluronate), moisture from the air is attracted to your skin and held to it by these humectants. The result? A serious decrease in line appearance. Another chief ingredient to look for is peptides. Many peptides are extremely effective in stimulating collagen production, resulting in the temporary filling in of lines.
   
4. Use sunscreen and don’t smoke! The sun is the major catalyst for skin aging. Cigarette smoke is number two. Combined, these will dry out your skin and result in a decrease of collagen – the skin’s support system – and dehydration. Always wear an SPF of 30 and don’t forget lip balms that contain an SPF!
   
5. Avoid Chemical Peels on the area. Chemical peels go deep and can cause hypopigmentation (lightening of skin). When you are treating just one area of the face, this hypopigmentation is rather noticeable.

DeLush: What is your favorite recipe for an at-home facial mask?

Liz: I am a big fan of avocados and their moisturizing abilities. I like to take a small avocado, remove the peel and the pit and smash it up thoroughly in a bowl. I then add a touch of honey (which acts as an antiseptic), and a tablespoon of milk or heavy cream. This provides some lactic acid (which is a gentle exfoliant). I apply to the entire face and let it dry. When it dries, I remove it with warm water and a soft towel. Your skin looks so nourished and refreshed afterwards.